Japan, a nation deeply intertwined with its rich food culture, is facing a threat to one of its delicacies due to climate change. Here’s the full story.
The Threat to the Sushi Industry
According to a recent report by NHK World, Nori, a crispy seaweed integral to dishes like sushi and onigiri rice balls, is under threat as changes in the marine environment are causing delayed harvests and decreased quality.
Higashimatsushima, a city in Miyagi Prefecture, specifically Aizawa’s farm, stands as one of Japan’s main producers of Nori. With 25 years of seaweed farming experience, Aizawa is witnessing the effects of rising sea temperatures on Nori cultivation. Typically, the harvest commences in late October, but this season saw a two-week delay, a rare occurrence in Aizawa’s quarter-century of farming.
The Reasons Behind the Changes
Rising sea temperatures are identified as the primary reason behind this delay, impacting the essential process of releasing seaweed spores into the water. Aizawa’s farming spot, rich in nutrients but vulnerable to temperature changes due to its proximity to land, experienced constant high temperatures last year. The delayed release of spores resulted in a delayed harvest, affecting the market’s supply.
Aizawa estimates a production drop of 10 to 20%, translating to half a million to a million fewer sheets of Nori.
The damage extends beyond delayed harvests.
The Effects of Climate Change
Reports across Japan shared the impact of changes in the marine environment on seaweed. Black seabream, typically less active in cool water, has become more active in winter due to rising sea temperatures, posing a significant risk to Nori harvests. In addition, regions like Kyushu reported issues with color fading, possibly linked to rising temperatures, low rainfall, and red tide outbreaks depleting seawater nutrients.
Japan’s Nori production has been on the decline for the past two decades, currently standing at less than half of its peak levels.
Embracing Technology
In response to these challenges, Aizawa and his colleagues have embraced new technologies to navigate the changing marine environment. The ICT buoy system, developed in collaboration with a communications firm, uses sensors to measure water temperature and salinity, providing real-time data through an app. This technological intervention aims to reduce harvest failures and maintain Nori quality.
Aizawa shared the worsening environmental conditions, highlighting the necessity of such technologies for the future. He added that reliance on intuition and experience alone is no longer sufficient in the face of these dramatic changes.
A Personal Relationship
Motivated by personal tragedy during the Great East Japan Earthquake in 2011, Aizawa is determined to preserve Nori farming. He lost colleagues in the disaster, a moment that propelled him to pursue what he believes in. Through workshops and engagements with new generations, Aizawa seeks to raise awareness about the challenges faced by the marine environment and the shrinking Nori harvest.
“I’m a person who engages with the sea more than anything else. My ancestors protected this livelihood for a long time. So, as someone with a close relationship with the ocean it’s my responsibility to tell people what’s happening,” he said.
So what do you think? In the face of climate change, how can traditional industries like Nori farming preserve cultural heritage while embracing innovative technologies to ensure sustainability for future generations?
